My boiler is not heating — can you come today?+
Yes. No-heat diagnostics are priority dispatch in winter. We carry common Triangle Tube, Lochinvar, Weil-McLain, and Burnham parts (circulators, zone valves, ignitors, sensors, condensate traps) for first-trip repair when possible.
What does an annual boiler service include?+
Combustion analysis report, condensate trap and neutralizer clean, pressure relief valve test, expansion tank pressure check, circulator pump inspection, zone valve operation test, anode rod check (where applicable), venting and draft check, and a written service log that lives with the system. About 90 minutes for a residential mod-con.
Do you design and install full hydronic systems?+
Yes — boiler selection, sizing, zoning layout, manifold design, radiant floor install, indirect tank, snow-melt, and commissioning. Whether it is a remodel adding one zone or a new build with five zones plus a snowmelt slab, we design and install from scratch.
Can radiant floor heating be retrofitted into an existing home?+
Yes, two ways: staple-up under the existing subfloor (works if you can access the joist bays from below — basement ceiling, crawlspace) or above-grade overlay panels like Warmboard (raises the finished floor 5/8–7/8 inch). We assess the access on-site before quoting either method.
Is radiant floor heating worth the upfront cost?+
If you are doing new construction or a major remodel where the floor is already coming up, yes — the labor incremental is small and you get a generation of comfort upgrade. As a pure retrofit it is more nuanced; we look at the existing heating system, the heat loss, and the floor finishes you already have before recommending it.
What kind of boiler should I install in North Idaho?+
For most residential, a mod-con condensing boiler — Triangle Tube Prestige, Lochinvar Knight, or Weil-McLain Evergreen. They run at 92–96% efficiency, modulate to match heat load, and pair perfectly with low-temperature radiant. Cast-iron is still appropriate for some older homes with high-mass radiators or no easy venting path.
How long does a boiler last?+
Mod-con: 15–20 years with annual service. Cast iron: 30+ years. Both depend heavily on water quality (a system filled with un-conditioned water scales the heat exchanger fast) and on regular maintenance. A neglected mod-con can die in 8 years; a maintained one runs to 20+.
Why does my boiler short-cycle?+
Most common: it is oversized for the heat load. Other causes: scaled heat exchanger, failed temperature sensor, undersized expansion tank, or zone configuration that pulls too little flow at low demand. Short-cycling kills boilers — annual service catches it.
Do you do snow-melt driveways?+
Yes. We design and install snow-melt slabs from 100 sq ft walkways up to full circular driveways. The system is glycol-and-PEX in the slab, tied to a dedicated boiler or a heat exchanger off the home boiler, automated by a snow-and-temp sensor.
What is the difference between hydronic heat and forced-air?+
Forced-air heats air and blows it through ducts; hydronic heats water and circulates it through pipes (to baseboards, radiators, or radiant floors). Hydronic is quieter, has even temperatures floor to ceiling, no dust circulation, and works at low water temperatures that pair with mod-con efficiency. Forced-air is cheaper to install and integrates with central AC. North Idaho's deep cold and dry winters make hydronic the better long-term choice for most.
Can I add air conditioning to a hydronic-heated home?+
Yes — the most common path is a separate ductless mini-split AC system (Mitsubishi, Daikin) for cooling, leaving the hydronic in place for heat. We do not install AC ourselves, but we coordinate with HVAC partners on full-stack designs.
Do you service older boilers, or only install new ones?+
Both. We service every brand we install plus older units (Burnham, Weil-McLain, New Yorker, Slant/Fin, Buderus). About a third of our boiler work is service on existing systems, including diagnostic-and-repair on the no-heat calls every winter.
